Showing posts with label Portugal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Portugal. Show all posts

Saturday 17 October 2020

Staying at Cascais: a week by the sea and hiking in the woods of Sintra

It only takes 3 1/2 hours to reach the Portuguese coast at Cascais, Lucy and I hit the road, an easy drive to visit my sister, a long awaited re-union of sisters, aunts, cousins, mothers and daughters, remembering our mothers and grandmothers, all the family but especially the girls! ..... a familia!

The weather was really beautiful for fab walks with Vicky, Kate and Lucy along the cliffs and beaches further north of Cascais, Guincho, Adraga, Magoito and Azenhas de Mar.








A little stroll through Cascais








 

A day out in the fabled woods of Sintra. Highlight was a steep climb up to the Moorish castle ruins which dominate the skyline above the town with fabulous views of the Atlantic coast and to Palacio de Pena on another crag. Great views of the Royal Palacio and many eccentric 19th century houses.

Sintra was the inspiration for part of Byron's ‘Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage’, about a young nobleman on the Grand Tour of Europe, in the poem it is spelled "Cintra" an antiquated spelling.

He was staying at Lawrence’s Inn, a popular hotel still open to guests today. At that time it was frequented by British visitors, many of them like Byron on a Grand Tour of Europe. It was run by Mrs Dyson who was pleased to settle her titled guest into his first-floor bedroom. Declaring his immediate admiration of the sweeping views across the hilltops and the valleys, Byron declared:

Oh Christ! It is a goodly sight to see.
What heaven hath done for this delicious land!

Captivated by an idealized natural world that could only be appreciated by men of sensibility, Childe Harold is a true romantic, awe-struck to find he has unlocked “Elysium’s gates”.






The Moorish castle had fallen into total ruin over the centuries until King Consort Ferdinand II restored the extensive outer walls and towers to serve as a romantic view from his amazing building project, Palacio de Pena started in 1838.  Originally the site of the palacio was a humble chapel where King Manuel I was said to have seen the fleet of Vasco de Gama returning  from the historical voyage of 1499 discovering the sea route to India, the spice route, thus making Portugal a rich and powerful country in the 16th century, to commemorate the event he built a monastery on the crag which fell into ruin until Ferdinand II chose the magical site for his new palacio and extensive exotic gardens. It is said that King Ludwig II of Bavaria based his castle Neuschwanstein on Pena copying the bizarre melange of styles, it is quite possible as the Ludwig and Ferdinand were related through the Saxe-Coberg and Gotha dynasty. 
Moorish, Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance and Baroque but also many alchemistic symbols as Ferdinand was a grand master of the Rosicrucian order.
Ferdinand and his second wife, a Swiss opera singer, welcomed many artists to their unusual home, among them composer Richard Strauss, who called it “the castle of the Holy Grail.”




Down in the charming town of Sintra the Royal Palace dominates the town, a delight to see it without too many tourists. 

The palace was shaped and influenced by the different artistic trends prevailing in each period from the 11th century under Moorish rule until the last Royal family of Portugal at the beginning of the 20th century. Gothic and Manueline architecture are particularly evident, also a very heavy emphasis on the Mudejar style – a symbiosis between Christian and Muslim art, all creating a magical atmosphere. 

I love the hidden corners in the gardens and patios; an old washing tank with relieves of a black servant scrubbing the laundry and another servant chatting, a fantastic lion sculpture above a pool and yet another pool at the café.







Finally the difficult decision of ordering coffee and which cakes at a wonderful pasteleria.


See this link for detailed history of the Moorish castle, Palacio de Pena and many other fabulous sites in Sintra and nearby https://www.parquesdesintra.pt/en/experiences/

Altogether a super break, total contrast to our tranquil life at the finca. 

Tuesday 12 March 2019

The streets of Évora

A quick trip to Évora the capital of Alentejo in Portugal, on a beautiful day, just walking around some old haunts. 
The Roman temple of Diana still looks impressive, the Praça do Giraldo is still a bit austere but the small streets and travessas are a delight, lots of cafés and restaurants with delicious typical food and wine of the region, a very relaxed town still within the old walls. 2 hours from Finca al-manzil.

















Tuesday 5 March 2019

Bizarre ruins of Radium spa in Portugal



The history of Radium treatment is long and complex, the building and ruin of this incredible place sums up the success, decline and fall of a bizarre craze 100 years ago.
On a flying visit to Portugal, we came across this amazing ruin by chance.
We had no idea what the purpose of the place might be but the results of research proved to be fascinating. It wasn't easy as all information was in Portuguese but with our rusty knowledge we fathomed it out, quite a weird little piece of history tucked away in the middle of nowhere.

Originally this was called Hotel Serra da Pena or Termas de Águas Radium (Radium Water Baths)it is situated near Caria and Sortelha, Sabugal in Portugal.
Built between 1910 and 1920 in a neo Moorish/Medieval style in solid granite it was designed to accommodate 150 guests , 90 in a luxury wing and the rest in more economical rooms, all partaking of the various treatments and therapies offered by the spa, enjoying  food prepared by an international chef and the surrounding gardens  planted with thousands of shrubs and trees. All this founded on a deep dark cavity in the basement where the highly radioactive hot water bubbled up from natural Uranium deposits in the mountain and was pumped around the hotel for some weird and wonderful treatments and also its own bottling plant which sold the radium water all over Portugal.




Walking through the ruined halls and roofless spaces one struggles to imagine what went on here in the glory years of the 1920s and even up until the 1940s when nasty rumours started to spread about radium treatments. Despite 30 years of radium fever the decline was fast and complete.







In legend the spa was founded by Don Rodrigo, a Spanish count who discovered the spring whilst hunting in the area and whose daughter was cured from a dreadful skin condition after drinking and bathing in the "miraculous" spring waters. In gratitude he ordered the construction of a spa.
But the first recorded information on the thermal baths is from 1910, when knowledge of radioactivity first started. Radium, discovered by Pierre and Marie Curie in 1898, is a chemical element belonging to the alkaline earth metal family. At that time it was promoted as being beneficial to health, the presence of radium in water was especially considered an important factor in its therapeutic application. It also coincided with the start of Uranium mining by the French company  Société d'uranie et Radio in Portugal.
In nature, radium is found in uranium. Radium is not necessary for living organisms and adverse health effects are likely when it is incorporated into biochemical processes because of its radioactivity and chemical reactivity. Currently, other than its use in nuclear medicine, radium has no commercial application but starting in the early years of the 20th century there was a veritable radium craze. Radioactivity was promised as a solution to all physical, psychic, industrial, medical and cosmetic ills. In the face of such great promises, people went crazy for radioactive elements, from face creams to children's toys.



 It was used as a radioactive source for radio luminescent devices such as glow in the dark watch dials, cosmetics and food and drink products but mainly in radioactive quackery for its supposed curative powers.
Due to the high demand for products with radioactivity, water bottling and water therapy centres began to vie in demonstrating which of their waters were the most radioactive. Radioactive water was used to treat the problems of rheumatism, gout, arterial hypertension, oedema, circulatory insufficiency, hypertension, kidneys, and gastrointestinal disorders.
 The most popular treatments were radioactive sludge applied to the joints for curing arthritis and joint problems, radioactive electric pads, baths, ingestion of water and the new Silla Studa.  The Studa chair was introduced to the spa by the Radium Water Company Ltd. Since the 19th century, enemas were a highly recommended treatment by various therapists. Colonic irrigation treatments were not only performed in clinics, but also in spas. One of its defenders was the famous Dr. Kellogg  of cereal fame who used colon hydrotherapy in the well-known spa of Battle Creek.
The radium chair used 35 litres of mineral water for a total disinfection of the colon.
Spas began marketing bottled water, in 1927 at the Lyon Congress  judged that the water from this spa was one of the most radioactive waters in the world.

."Radium water gives health, vigor and strength"



As further evidence of the radioactivity fever here is an official map printed by the Portuguese government in the first half of the last century, used in some schools. What is striking is that the map includes a chart in which the curative effects of radioactive waters from different  pplaces are includes a chart in which the curative effects of radioactive waters from different places are explained.


These glory days were soon to pass. At the beginning the authorities only gave advice not to use the radium spas but not to prohibit.  Soon the media interest increased.
Announcement in the Modern Mecanix de Janeiro magazine in 1933.

The American Medical Association reports the probable uselessness and even more probable danger of the ingestion of radioactive waters or the use of other remedies that supposedly contain radio. There is no evidence that this water is beneficial.

The spa began to decline and by 1944 there were only 44 guests, it suspended activities in 1945. In 1951 the English owned ,Compañía Portuguesa de Radio  would buy the concession of hotel and mining but it went bankrupt and from 1954 to 1955 the directors gutted the site of anything saleable including all metallic elements for sale in Lisbon.  Mining activities ceased in 1961.
The thermal complex was auctioned in Lisbon and bought by a family whose identity is unknown. Later it was bought by Ramiro Lopes with the intention of turning it into a luxury hotel, a project that failed. In the year 2000 it was sold to his brother Antonio Lopes in order to become a hotel and a golf course, and again the project was abandoned.
In the meantime the ruin crumbles a little more each year, maybe soon it will collapse and all that will be left is a trickle of water from deep in the mountain, possibly glowing a little in the dark.

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