A Short trip to a very small Monastery

It's getting chilly so our long walks tend to be transformed into a drive in the car and a short walk with some central point of interest and a few things to see along the way. Last weekend it was a trip to Ciudad Rodrigo, about 180kms from Montanchez nearly on the border with Portugal. Yet another siege and battle scene from the Peninsula wars, famed for its extensive and complete defensive wall encircling the whole town. After turning off the autovia de la plata at Canaveral we headed west towards Portugal. We have been this way several times on the way to the pottery at Torrejoncillo where we bought our large clay oven. This time we took a little detour at the sign for Monasterio de Palancar. A pretty rural camino wound through green fields to the village of Palancar tucked away in a fold of the hills. Just a little outside the village is the monastery built on a hill with wide views down to the valley. I had read that this was the smallest monastery in the world..........depends what constitutes a monastery I suppose, it certainly didn't look small from the outside but apparently this first view is mostly the "iglesia nueva" which was built 300 years after the first foundation in 1557 . We had time to look around the charming damp garden before one of the designated times of entry, quite a gruff warning not to ring the bell at any other times.  The door creaked open at 12.15 to reveal a small bent figure in the brown habit of the Franciscan order, this was brother Basilico who seemed to be quite alert if not agile considering his 86 years.

He gave us the tour and a fluent spiel about the quirks and curiosities of the place. From the iglesia nuevo built in the 18th century with a soaring vaulted ceiling of exposed bricks and plain whitewashed walls we walked through a passage way to the attractive cloisters built in the 19th century, a courtyard with pots of ferns and jasmine had a protective wire net against nesting birds....ummm I am sure St. Francis would not have approved. The "smallest monastery" became evident, in the middle of the much later buildings. 

The original area of the monastery founded by San Pedro de Alcantara was based on an existing building next to the Fuente de Pedrosa, a spring of famed healing qualities which also nurtured a particularly fertile fig tree, the fruit doled out by the brothers to pilgrims in search of cures. In a mere 30 x 28 feet was a Lilliputian world including a chapel adorned with gleaming intricate mosaics added in the 1950s depictingangels, S.Pedro and his faithful follower S. Teresa de Avila.

A tiny courtyard open to the sky with a tank to collect rainwater, a few cells only just big enough for a very small person to stretch out, a kitchen which was really just a primitive open fire in the corner, a refectory, the monks ate their frugal meals in a kneeling position from bare stone ledges..........and the smallest space in the whole area was a 1m2 cubby hole under the crude stairs,here San Pedro crouched on a stone block with his head resting on a wooden pole for only 1 1/2 hours sleep every night and was observed to sometimes levitate during particularly ecstatic moments. 

Apparently he only ate every 3 days, never meat, fish or eggs, went barefoot all year and wore a metal vest under his habit which had been driven with nails leaving sharp barbs on the inside...........no wonder he couldn't sleep!

While brother Basilico was recounting all this we were bending almost double to get through the tiny doors and shivering in the damp cold, Manfred and I looked at each other and I am sorry to say our wordless comment was 'what a weirdo!' In his earlier life he had been attracted to the austerity of the Franciscans but deeming the order not rigorous enough he was the author of the ‘Constitutions of the Stricter Observants’ an even more severe code of conduct. Not surprisingly there was a general outcry and San Pedro was forced to search for a place where he could follow his stringent rules in peace. He found it in Portugal on the Arrabida peninsula, a very beautiful setting for a group of hermitages and monastic buildings built on a remote and inaccessible part of the coast. These can still be seen today and were featured in Manolo Oliveira’s film, ‘O Convento’. After several years in Portugal he returned to Spain, led a solitary existence for 2 years and then decided to walk to Rome, bare foot of course, to ask permission from the pope Julius III to establish some poor convents in Extremadura under his guidance and code of conduct. Pedrosa and Plasencia are still in existence as buildings but it seems the ‘stricter observations’ are long gone. Brother Basilico looked cosy in his woolly socks and sandals and the newer part of the monastery looked clean, spacious and probably warm for the 8 remaining brothers. San Pedro de Alcàntara is the patron saint of Extremadura and is greatly esteemed as can be observed at his statue in the Plaza de Santa Maria in Caceres, the statue is gaunt, austere, bronze with a dull patina ….except the bony feet which have been kissed and stroked to a bright gleaming gold.

MONTANCHEZ CASTLE- AUTUMN SUNSET

An 800 year old Encina (Holm Oak)

The Encina la Terrona is a huge Holm oak tree a little distance from the village of Zarza de Montanchez. Last week we set off from Zarza on a country lane passing by the giant tree and continuing for another 5 kms along the old droving track until the village of Salvatierra de Santiago an ancient stop on the way to Santiago de Compostella. A very interesting village with many old houses including a medieval hostal. You can see the route on this link in Spanish

http://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?&id=273464

It was an easy walk, almost completey flat wandering through the rural landscape past some iberic pig farms with plump black pigs in 3 sizes from squealing piglets to huge barrage balloons. The walk followed the line of a sheltered part of the sierra with some impressive birds of prey riding the thermals far above.

We arrived in Salvatierra de Santiago in time for a well deserved rest and drink at our favourite bar which was originally a tiny cinema in times gone by, now a cosy place with a wood burning stove in winter and an atmospheric shady courtyard in summer. We were disappointed to find the courtyard bare of tables and chairs despite the warm temperature, just the somewhat sombre aspidisderas sulking in their pots and the wonderous wisteria entwined with an old vine woven into an almost solid canopy above.

However, the very friendly owner arranged a table and chairs just for us and we spent a happy hour with tapas and beer to sustain us for the return walk to Zarza which makes a round trip of about 11kms

 

We took a wrong turning on the way back and had to cut across some fields with peacefully grazing cows. That's the problem with such flat land, not many landmarks to go by except the distant view of a church tower now and then.

Altogether a pleasant walk but not sensational, walking in the high sierra is much preferable although more challenging.

A walk to commemorate the Battle of Arroyomolinos 28th October 1811

Today is the 198th anniversary of the battle of Arroyomolinos which was fought in the morning of 28th October 1811 during a wild storm. Fortunately for us the weather was perfect this morning, sunny and warm and not a desperate French hussar in sight as we set off for the walk which follows the path taken by Spanish guerrilla fighters hoping to cut off the retreat of General Girard and what was left of his force after the total rout of the battle. In fact they were not successful and General Girard although wounded managed to escape over a low saddle in the sierra, with him were a mere 400 troops out of his original force of 3000. He left behind a scene of confusion and disaster, many French troops in desperate panic tried to escape directly up the impossibly steep slopes of the sierra disgarding their horses and armour on the way, they were either swiftly dispatched by the guerrillas or rounded up by the British force under General Hill and captured as prisoners of war to be sent back via Lisbon to the specially built prisons in England for the duration of the war.


General Girard must surely have been in deepest despondency that morning. The day had started badly for him. His breakfast was rudely interrupted by the sudden and totally unexpected attack on Arroyomolinos heralded by the 71st Highlanders charging pell mell and shouting their rousing rendition of the old Jacobite air "Johnny Cope, are ye rising yet?"
The fighting was fierce and bloody with close combat over the walls of the village gardens and several cavalry charges. The brilliant tactics of General Hill left no road out of the village uncovered. The French were in a trap with no way to go except due east: to the north was the Sierra de Montanchez, a long chain of steep hills while to the west and the south were the British on the exits to Merida and Trujillo. By moving quickly and abandoning all their wagons, horses, cannons and armour the French nearly escaped when their column was hit by the lead units of Wilson's Brigade (the light companies of the 1/28th, 1/34th, and the 1/39th Regiments) coming from the south. The three companies hit the first battalion in the flank and succeeded in slowing down the rest of the column until the rest of the British and Portuguese could come up. Girard, seeing there was no escape, ordered his men not to stop and fight, but to attempt to move cross-country and to climb the high hills. He and about 400 men succeeded by scrambling over the only low part of the sierra, however the rest of the column was penned in and forced to lay down their arms. The battle was lost ingloriously and the French loses were horrendous. Of the six infantry battalions and three cavalry regiments engaged, about 1,000 men were killed or wounded. In addition to these casualties, another 1300 men and 30 officers were made prisoners. Most of the casualties were among the infantry, who lost about 80% of their combatents. Additionally, General Bron, the commander of the Cavalry, the Prince of Aremberg, commander of the 27th Chasseurs, and Colonel André, the chief-of-staff of the 5th Corps were all taken as prisoners. Girard lost all his baggage, guns, 6 caissons of ammunition, and the 5,000 dollars tax levied on the town of Caceres. British losses were less than 80 men killed and wounded. General Girard was subsequently relieved by Marshal Soult and returned to France in disgrace.

As you can see the path winds its way high up on the slopes of the sierra with amazing views down on to the flat plains of olive groves, on that long ago morning probably still shrouded with the heavy mist that decended after the storm, at least blotting out the carnage below. We walked to the point where the guerrillas must have been able to observe Girard's desperate band disappearing over the low dip in the sierra, they assumed that they would be stopped by a convoy on the road below but in fact this did not happen and the survivors must have had a desperate few days until they could join up with the French forces of Druet several days later.

We turned back and took another path that leads along a track high above the watermill gorge of arroyomolinos with wonderful views down on to the mills rather than the usual route of walking past them. We came out above the path that leads to Montanchez where there are several more mills and a stand of enormous chestnut trees which may have been slender saplings 198 years ago.

From this point we then took the usual route down the gorge back to Arroyomolinos. The river was running in some parts and looked quite clean and clear, it must have been quite different on that fateful day. Many of the French must have tried to escape up the gorge, maybe trying to take shelter in the mills but they didn't get far before they were overtaken by the merciless guerrillas and barbarously slaughtered, the river ran red that day.

Ice From the sky

The storm on the morning of 17th September was quite amazing. The finca was battered by huge hailstones for at least 15 minutes........................

Then a stupendous thunder storm with torrential rain. Soon there were rivers flowing down the mountain carrying earth and fallen leaves down to our bottom wall. The drainage holes had become blocked up over the last year so the mud accumulated rapidly, it gradually seeped away but the debris left covered half the wall. The hailstone stayed on the ground looking pristinely beautiful for several hours. Quite bizarre considering we were sweltering last week. The sierra now looks very washed, wonderful to see the dark earth and mossy rocks after months of parched dusty earth. Unfortunately the swimming pool was inundated with muddy water, swimming weather is nearly over now but we will have to drain the pool, clean out the mud and refill, this has never happened before, a bit of a bore but almost worth the trouble to have experienced all the drama of the storm and the refreshing of the earth, hopefully there will be grass shoots coming up very soon and we shall once again have a green glow over the finca.

Walking Extremadura- The water mill gorge, Arroyomolinos

Arroyomolinos is the nearest village to Finca Al-manzil and can be reached by a delightful path directly from the finca. The village is very peaceful and claims to be the largest producer of figs in the Extremadura. There is a 15th century church with a marvellously intricate stone entrance. The battle of Arroyomolinos was a decisive battle in the Peninsula Wars and was fought on the plains outside the village where the figs now flourish. Arroyomolinos means "Stream of mills" and it is this feature that we will discover on our walk.The village is backed by the slopes of the Sierra de Montanchez, a deep gorge has been cut through the sierra by a strong stream and it is here that water mills have been built since Roman times.

                   




     


























Throughout the following centuries the mills were consructed to the same curious design. The water was guided by stone water chutes into tall chimney-like towers, then came crashing down to drive the mill stones at the bottom, the water then continuing down the gorge to the next mill. It is an impressive sight to see the mills marching up the gorge as we walk along the stone-paved path.

This steep path is the only access to the wild gorge so the mills were gradually abandoned in modern times until the last mill closed in the 1950s.They are now picturesque ruins, although a few have been renovated badly by the local Ayuntiamento, too little too late and better not at all. The walk winds up the gorge, past the olive groves and orchards which are watered by the stream, olives, figs, oranges, lemons, huge mulberry trees and vines that produce the strong mountain wine Pitarra. The small, black Iberic pigs that produce the delicious jamon are left to range freely under the cork oak trees gorging on the acorns. In Spring the whole mountain becomes a tapestry of wild flowers including rare orchids and many aromatic herbs. Usually walks in the sierra are accompanied by the cry of the eagles circling above.

As one approaches Montanchez from the top of the gorge the castle rises majestically in the distance. In about 30 minutes one is within the ramparts and realizes why Montanchez is know as the balcony of Extremadura as the splendid views spread out below.

 

MYSTERIOUS MOORISH CASTLE

We went for a long walk in the dehesa near the embalses Horno Tejero and Boquerón, although only 20 minutes from the finca, already in the Badajoz province. Very beautiful open parkland with some ancient cork oaks, plenty of pigs and sheep grazing. Some old cortijos on extensive estates, all beautifully maintained in the old manner.
In the distance on a small hill we saw crumbling ancient stone walls rising above the surrounding trees......... too interesting to resist.

As we approached the edifice it became, more obviously, a small castle or defensive fort. Difficult to estimate the age but probably Moorish as are all the other defensive forts in the area; we are too far away from the Portuguese border for border strongholds erected throughout the middle ages and into the 18th century.

A very romantic place with some towers still in place surrounding a large open grassy area in the middle. A gentle wind rocked the trees, a timeless atmosphere of tranquility buried deep in the woods with stupendous views over the beautiful countryside down to the lakes and an old cortijo.............another secret corner of Extremadura.

IT'S BEEN MONTHS!!

A long gap in the blog but we've been mega busy..........despite the dreaded crisis we have had the best year so far at the finca. I wonder why? Maybe people are not going to long haul destinations this year, concentrating on European destinations....could be. This year most of the clients for the cortijo and barn are still British but with many Belgiums and Dutch, our first French family, Italians, Germans, American/Indonesian family and a few Spanish clients which is always nice but quite rare as the favourite rural holiday mode of the Spanish is to rent a house for a long weekend (puente) and we don't do that. I think it has helped business a lot that I have not changed my prices for the last 3 years :-
The cortijo is still rented for €1600 per week for 6 people during the summer, reducing to €1400 the rest of the year.
The barn still €700 per week for 2 people or €100 per day min. of 4 days rental, kids can be accommodated on 2 extra beds. All year price.
B&B is still €65 per night per double room, min. 2 nights stay.
Happy to say we have had wonderful clients who have really indulged in country life and left behind glowing reports of how much they have enjoyed their stay at the finca. Many thanks to all of you!!
The first cooking week went well and I am looking forward to the September and October weeks after the summer break. Have just heard of a farmer in the south of Extremadura who produces "ethical" foie gras. I may include a visit as one of our cooking week excursions as it sounds interesting. Apparently he lets his geese roam freely in the oak forests just as the iberic pigs. As soon as the weather starts to get cold in November the geese naturally gorge on the acorns in preparation for their winter flights, there is no force feeding involved........unfortunately the poor old geese don't get to go on their winter holidays but the result is delicious on toast and not too many guilt twinges. Will make a report on this soon.



















Manfred has started to ride again, he's been in training by bumping up the camino to Montanchez on his quad which has prepared his many vulnerable old injuries for regular riding. He bought a big steady horse for riding again, Fatboy, but unfortunately he is a bit too steady and a bit boring so he has had Harè in training locally and he has prooved to be a marvellous ride. As usual with all the horses we only use Hackamores with excellent results.
See photos of Harè at birth on the finca in May 2004 and now with Manfred. They don't look too disproportionate despite Harè's neat athletic build and Manfred's long legs. Not sure about that pose with the very limp wrist!

The last summer clients are renting the cortijo until 28th August and then we will be "at home" for September, so far one more rental in October and then I guess we will settle in for winter.
Thinking about a winter break in Slovenia, I have never tried cross country skiing and it looks like fun..........of course Manfred will be expert and way ahead as usual, nearly all my holiday hiking photos are of Manfred as a distant dot on the horizon.




Doing as little as possible right now, we are going through a humid phase of August, lots of lazing, immersion in water, tons of books to read, lovely long warm evenings under the amazing stars, midnight swims and sleeping out on the porch on the comfy old Indian charpoy. Summer.

FINALLY, AT LONG LAST..........

Rather a long break.......but we have been busy. On Christmas Eve the dining room extension in the cortijo was finally finished......that is the builders left after the last swipe of the trowel leaving walls and ceiling saturated with the 100s of litres of water necessary for the building process. It has taken 2 months for the walls to dry out sufficiently for painting and another month for me to paint doors, cupboards and arrange the room around the long dining table.

An added bonus is that above the dining room there is now a wonderful roof terrace leading off the upstairs bedroom of the cortijo with the most beautiful views of the mountain and across the trees to Cornalvo.

Also some added book shelf space as we have separated the sitting room with tall doors bought in a junk shop set into an extended wall of books. At last I may be able to lay my hand on exactly the right information in exactly th e right book.......thank goodness internet has not taken the place of my beloved books.

Books in progress..........still lots of gaps for the books being brought up from the barn and of course the constant new editions

Besides being busy, busy in the house we have been taking long walks with the dogs in the splendid Spring weather. At the moment the white and yellow broom is drenching the air with a very heady scent, the slopes of the whole finca are swathed in yellow and white, really gorgeous. The fig trees are just coming into their first delicate leaves with tiny figs beginning to swell.

Animals are all well, no new foals this year. Roxy and Zeru are 6 months old now, getting lanky and more adventurous but continue to delight us with their antics, they are now micro -chipped which is apparently obligatory.

We have had our first b & b guests and dinner parties in the dining room so it is well and truly inaugurated and seems to work well especially as there is now access to the back terrace without having to go through the sitting room. I think the focus of the house will be more defined for Summer/ Winter use with the kitchen/ dining room/ terrace being more used in Summer and the porch/kitchen/ dining room and sitting room more used in Winter.

By the way we have some huge clay wine tinajas for sale, about 1.60 tall , about 60 years old and in perfect condition, also 40m2 of granite flag stones which you can see here in situ...........sadly this house is going to be renovated by the owner and this apparently means ripping up the traditional passage way floor which was always laid with strong granite flags as there was constant traffic of donkey laden with produce destined for the bodega in the cellar or the lofts for grain, olive oil and jamons. Shame because this is a wonderful house in Montanchez and it will now be lost in an avalanche of shiny modern tiles and ornate fixtures and fittings....que pena!!

Please enquire if interested in purchasing tinajas or flags.