BOOK TOWERS OF MERIDA, EXTREMADURA

Las Siete Sillas ( the seven seats), are situated in the gardens in front of the library by the river in Merida. 

These massive granite towers are furnished with giant bronze tomes and sheaves of bronze documents, heavy reads indeed!

The monolithic sculptures are by Ruffino Mesa, a sculptor, artist and writer born in Badajoz in 1948 http://www.lacomella.org/es/escultura/escultura  for more information on his marvellous works.

The inspirtion for Las siete sillas was from the legend of the seven seats at the Roman theatre in the ancient city of Merida. The theatre was left abandoned after the Christian powers overcame the Roman administration in about 400 AD. The pagan Roman ways were swept away and theatre performances were considered a danger to the new morals. Over the centuries the theatre construction was buried by earth and much of the stone looted for new construction but seven rocks remained above the ruins, named the seven seats and according to legend where the Moorish conquerers sat to discuss the future of the city at the end of the 9th century.

The sculptures were started in 1990 and erected in 2000, in the video it is clear that the now pleasant and extensive green gardens by the river were a barren waste in 2000.  Thanks to progressive town planning several urban projects were began 15 years ago including much tree planting and some iconic buildings and structures by prestigious Spanish architects, the span of Calatrava's signature bridge can be seen in the background .http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santiago_Calatrava 
A walk along the river is really interesting, park on the west side of the river in new Merida and walk over the 2000 year old Roman bridge into the old town passing by the Alcazaba.

 

DAY IN MADRID

It takes 3 hours by car from Finca al-manzil  www.finca-al-manzil.com to Madrid. Quite a dramatic contrast, from our wide open spaces, wooded hillsides and pure nature to a huge sprawling city.
Madrid was designated as the capital of Spain in 1561 purely for geographical reasons, it lies right in the middle  but has no other natural distinguishing features, the river Manzanares is more of a ditch than a river of any significance, nowadays with the additon of dams and locks it has become a sort of linear pond with attractive landscaping.
  The older parts of Madrid are only from the end of 16th century and beginning of the 17th century, there is very little left with the notable exception of the Plaza Mayor which is a stately square in the middle of a labyrinth of small streets on the edge of La Latina. The plaza has been rebuilt many times after serious fires but always copying the original early 17th century design.  La Casa de Panaderia dominates the square, it is in fact not a bakery but a municipal building and registry office. The murals are replacements of older versions, very modern, completed in 1992 with designs by Carlos Franco based on mythological figures such as Cybele, Proserpine, Bacchus, and Cupid  as well as others invented by the artist. I find the paintings badly executed and the subjects lacking charm, judge for yourself.........

Just next to the Plaza Mayor is the Mercado de San Miguel, a great place for lunch with its many stalls selling delectable tapas and plenty of bars selling the best of Spanish products; sherry, wine, beer, cider and cava.

Time for coffee in the Plaza de Isabel II in front of the Opera at a charming and original café from the 19th century

An afternoon at the Prado, there's a wonderful Vélasquez exhibition  October 8, 2013
February 09, 2014

Then before driving home a drink at the Círculo de Bellas Artes in the Calle de Alacalá.
http://www.circulobellasartes.com/index.php
This is a cultural association with frequent exhibitions, a library and cinema. Designed by Antonio Palacios and constructed in 1926.

The bar on the ground floor hasn't changed since the 1920s when it was a meeting place for an arty crowd of writers and artists including  students of La Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando further up the Calle de Alcalá where Picasso and Dali studied art, both dropping out preferring the scene in Barcelona. The azotea, roof terrace,  is not to be missed, fabulous views of the Madrid skyline and some gems of early 20th century architecture in nearby buildings.

                          Façade of Círculo das Bellas Artes with Athena on the roof terrace

The atmospheric café of the Bellas Artes with an  iconic sculpture lying in the middle of the floor, it is the work of  Moisés de Huerta y Ayuso from 1910. The title is "El salto de Léucade"  and refers to the legend of the rocks of Leucade where Sappho was supposed to have leapt to her death  after being rejected by a lover. Over centuries the rocks of Leucade have been the chosen means of death by desperate lovers.
The café is know as La Pecera, the fishtank owing to the huge windows overlooking the both streets of the corner, a perfect place to see and be seen. There is a €1 entrance fee
The azotea or roof terrace is a must, it costs €2 to take the lift up to this amazing space, especially spectacular as the sun is going down.

A view from the roof terrace of the Circulo de Bellas Artes towards the chariots on roof of the BBVA

Roof terrace in the evening with the statue of Athena by Juan Luis Vasallo

                                      Amazing views of the roof line of Madrid