Thursday 12 May 2016

ANOTHER WALK TO THE BOTIJA MOLINOS


Our favourite Sunday walk ending up in the charming bar at Salvatierra de Santiago.
This was a beautiful sunny day only last Sunday, since then it's been rather wet, unusual in May but we will do the walk again this Sunday, the waterfall from the weir must be spectacular after all the recent rain. Absolutely love this walk, the bird life is wonderful, full of bee eaters nesting in the muddy banks, many storks and herons. Always a flock of goats, cows, sheep and Iberic pigs on the way to the perfect pastoral peace of the mill buildings surrounded by vast areas of dehesa. 
About a 2 hour walk. 
 


















Thursday 5 May 2016

GOYA IN CACERES


We are so fortunate to have this marvellous local exhibition of Goya's four great series of etchings   Los Caprichos, Los Desastres de la Guerra, La Tauromaqina and Los Disparates (The Follies or Proverbios or Sueños).

The exhibition is called GOYA, TESTIGO DE SU TIEMPO: GOYA, WITNESS OF HIS TIME.
 A very apt title as Goya recorded unflinchingly the turbulent events of his life time in a Spain torn by religious bigotry, social upheavals, war, famine but also the rituals and customs of Spain, the popular entertainments of carnival, bull fighting, fiestas. The costumes and customs of the rich and poor meticulously recorded, the majas and majos, the beggars and prostitutes with the ever present Celestina, a name that has become synonomous for procuress in Spanish culture and she appears over and over again in Goya's work as a series of hideous old hags.
Seeing these again, they remind me of the huge influence Goya has had  and continues to have on 20th and 21st century art. Look at this, Paula Rego springs to mind!



These etchings made from original plates are owned by 3 individual private collectors and have been brought together for a touring exhibition, they have already been shown in Paris and Istanbul and now until June 06 at Fundación Mercedes Calles Y Carlos Ballestero at Casa Palacio de Los Becerra in the ancient city centre, Plaza San Jorge 2. www.fmercedescalles.org 
Only negative comment on exhibition is the framing, the reflections are distracting, non-reflective glass would have made the experience even better.










Another plus of this exhibition is the new restaurant also owned by the foundation right in front of the palacio at the foot of the Jesuit church and with access to the charming little garden of Ulloa
http://jardindeulloa.com/    Great tapas and more substantial dishes, fantastic quality and reasonable prices.


Thursday 25 February 2016

CASTILLO DE LUNA AT ALBURQUERQUE, BADAJOZ




Castillo de Luna ....Castle of the moon, named after the Luna family and in particular an illegitimate son Don Álvaro de Luna y Jarana who was endowed with the castle by the Order of Santiago in 1445. How did an illegitimate boy from the minor nobility of Aragon become so successful?

He was an ambitious cultured rogue who took full advantage of his childhood association with Juan II de Castilla to gain power, prestige and riches.
 He was introduced to the court as a page by his uncle Pedro de Luna, archbishop of Toledo, in 1410, Pedro de Luna later became antipope as Benedict XIII.
 Álvaro was charming and ambitious, he soon secured a commanding influence over the young Juan II. However, during the regency of King John's uncle Ferdinand, which ended in 1412, he was not allowed to be more than a servant but  when  Ferdinand was elected king of Aragon, and the regency was assumed by the king's mother, Catherine of Lancaster,  Álvaro became a very important person, the  "contino" or old friend of the King.
He became Álvaro de Luna, Maestre de la Orden de Santiago y Condestable de Castilla  and took over the castle in 1445 as part of his unscrupulous  machinations to climb to ever more elevated positions of power due to his privileged position as the king’s confidante.  
 He instigated the impressive building we see today within the old walls including the Torre del Homenaje and its neighbouring tower , the space between spanned by a massive arched bridge with drawbridge for times of danger.




He stamped the moon of his family name throughout the castle and on surrounding monuments including the stone fuente just outside the castle walls. 



He was confident in founding a powerful dynasty but his ambition was thwarted  when  the second wife of Juan II , Isabella of Portugal,  became increasingly offended by the immense influence of Alvaro,  finally the king succumbed to Isabella’s demands,  Alvaro was arrested, tried and condemned to death.  He was executed by beheading at Valladolid in 1453, King Juan II died the following year in 1453. The Lunas were disgraced but the castle remained as a witness.
Before being know as Castillo de Luna, the castle was a simple fortress built by the Moors in an important strategic position, close to the Portuguese border and equidistant between Valencia de Alcantara  and Badajoz. During the re-conquest the castle passed into Christian hands under Fernando II in 1166, was taken again by the Moors in 1184 and finally was re-conquered in 1217 when it was given to the powerful Order of Santiago who appointed various keepers linked to the kings of Castilla and Aragon. 
It was during this period that the church of Santa María del Castillo was built within the walls during the XIII century in the late Romanesque and Gothic  style.


After the downfall of Álvaro de Luna the castle passed into the hands of Don Beltran de la Cueva  from 1465-1472. Several buildings were added including the pentagonal tower.  
The castle fell into considerable dilapidation and abandonment over the next centuries.
During the war of succession between 1700 -1714 Alburquerque was invaded by an Anglo-Portuguese army.  The Portuguese added a massive defense system of walls designed in the style of Vauban similar to the defense systems of Elvas and Estremoz in Portugal. Also they  added  some more congenial conditions in the Torre del  Homenaje, fireplaces, tiled floors and larger windows with deep window seats overlooking the vast views.



In 1716 the Alburquerque was again in Spanish hands and again fell into a slow decline.

Despite the deterioration caused by the passage of time and lack of maintenance there are still many impressive features, especially the three complete defense walls, the gates and the massive keep built by Álvaro de Luna.

The small town of Alburqerque still thrives around the castle walls. There is a Medieval fiesta every year in August.

There are guided tours of the castle in Spanish : a.m. at 11.00, 12.00 and 13.00 and p.m. at 16.00 and 17.00





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