MOROCCO # 5 - Ait Bougmez - Happy valley in the high Atlas

22nd- 23rd June 2008

From Rissani it was time to head back in the general direction of Marrakech.

Not sure of where we would stop on the way. We were tempted to explore the Ait Bougmez valley in the high Atlas but were daunted by the 80 kms of rough track that showed on our map.

We had read about the valley and it sounded extremely interesting, the river made intense agriculture possible in this high 30 km long valley. Interesting villages were preserved in the traditional style, thick pisè walls, wooden beams and rafters with pounded mud and straw made the distinctive flat roofs.

As we passed the massive barrage of Bin Ouidane we were intrigued by a battered sign for 'Auberge du Lac', it sounded romantic so we dived down the small road in the direction of the lake. The shadows were lengthening, it was very quiet and seemed a good place to stay if possible.

The auberge was set amongst banana trees looking down on to an arm of the lake, it seemed to have been built at around the time of the barrage, early 50s but had an almost art deco look. After banging and knocking on various doors it dawned on us that the place was abandoned, a tattered net curtain stirred in the breeze that rattled the banana leaves, suddenly it seemed rather creepy, it took on a rather more sinister air.
Time to go, leaving the Auberge du Lac to its brooding melancholy.

Unfortunately we had to stop in Azilal for our overnight stay, an anonymous town stretched along the highway to Marrakech. Even more unfortunately we stayed at an hotel that is best forgotten, especially the shoe leather steak. Bad luck but something good came out of it. After chatting to the owner it appeared that the road to Ait Bougmez was now paved at least into the valley, he wasn't sure about the other half of the loop that would bring us back to Azilal across the mountains in order to continue to Marrakech....... we didn't care, even if we had to come back the same way, normally my particular anathma.


Quite exciting to be entering completely unknown territory. Soon after Azilal the road started to climb and wind around the mountains. We passed the barrage again with very impressive views that showed its true extent, apparently it is Morocco's largest barrage and provides 25% of the hydro electricity.

The new road was narrow but well made, probably hazardous in winter, we could see signs of avalanches bringing down tons of rocks which must bounce across the route several times before reaching the valley floor.




Very beautiful wild mountain scenery, plenty of trees, mainly pine and holm oak. We passed women and children herding goats and sheep on seemingly deserted stretches of road, then around the next bend were a few precariously situated houses, very remote from any support, how very self-sufficient these mountain Berbers must be.

Soon the villages started, clinging to the steep sides of the valley, the cubes of brown mud built like steps on narrow terraces, the roof of one forming the front yard of another. Way down below the river flowed, patchworks of neat square fields and mature walnut trees flourished, the small black goats looked like ants from so high up.





It was harvest time for the favoured crop of barley, furious activity on the threshing floors with teams of donkeys galloping round and round to stamp out the grain, the chaff rose up in dusty clouds. It became apparent that this was a totally non-mechanised area, not a tractor in sight just loads of donkeys which was lovely to see. The children obviously had there part to play in the agricultural processes too. There were a few schools which were attended in the morning and then for most children their allotted tasks in the afternoons.

After a confluence of rivers we followed the road which continued to skirt the ait bougmez river, it ascended steeply, we guessed this would be the part of the river where the spectacular gorges were situated considering such a dramatic height difference. The river was now accessible, the area was beautifully cultivated with the towering walnut trees all along the way. Passed some amazing agadirs, grain stores situated on high rock outcrops. These were not only used for grain storage in times of peace but as sanctuary in times of war.

Here are two photos of the granery which is also the marabout of Sidi Moussa, it was a long hot climb to the top, I can't imagine fleeing up there in times of emergency, I guess donkeys were the means of transport for the usual grain storage. Inside the granery each family had its own compartment for their grain with a beautifully carved and decorated door, in times of trouble the grain would become communal.

Time to ask about the road, did it continue or not? Manfred went to ask in a rather beautifully restored house in Itrane.........I sat under a walnut tree and watched the river flow. 20 minutes later he was back beaming with the good news that the house was in fact an auberge and they had plenty of room, in fact no one else was staying.

This was Dar Itrane my favourite place in our whole holiday found by complete fluke, serendipity forever!

We had a complete tour of the substantial building conducted by Ibrahim, there he is above. From the typical insignificant entrance, through the courtyard, the hammam, 3 floors of traditional salons, a library, dining room, enviable kitchen, lots of tempting rooms with a superb open balcony on each floor. Since we had a choice of the whole auberge we chose the top room with its own balcony, fascinating views of village life and the surrounding mountains.

We had always dreamt of a place in Morocco, a place that was simple, using well made natural materials and traditional design..........unfortunately Moroccan style often means some hyped up 'exotic' fantasy created by European clichès and using the tackiest crap from the tourist catering parts of the souk. At last, here it was, a work of art, a labour of love. The perfect balance between comfort, design and tradition. Owned by a Frenchman with an extended programme of integration with the local community......Well done!

We asked Ibrahim to stoke up the hammam before dinner while we had a wander, haunting cries of the women ululating madly and then later rhythmic drumming and chanting from nearby house...... a funeral, a marriage?........a mystery.

The hammam was literally stunning, intense clouds of steamy heat rising from the huge copper heated directly from below by a blazing wood fire, plastered ourselves in thick, gooey olive oil gunge and came out super shiny clean.

Dinner on the terrace, salads , tagine, fruit...........and of course one of our precious bottles of wine.

Later back on our balcony we ended our perfect day and night at Dar Itrane.

 

.............goodbye, we will be back one day to walk the gorges, Inshallah.