Walking Extremadura- The water mill gorge, Arroyomolinos

Arroyomolinos is the nearest village to Finca Al-manzil and can be reached by a delightful path directly from the finca. The village is very peaceful and claims to be the largest producer of figs in the Extremadura. There is a 15th century church with a marvellously intricate stone entrance. The battle of Arroyomolinos was a decisive battle in the Peninsula Wars and was fought on the plains outside the village where the figs now flourish. Arroyomolinos means "Stream of mills" and it is this feature that we will discover on our walk.The village is backed by the slopes of the Sierra de Montanchez, a deep gorge has been cut through the sierra by a strong stream and it is here that water mills have been built since Roman times.

                   




     


























Throughout the following centuries the mills were consructed to the same curious design. The water was guided by stone water chutes into tall chimney-like towers, then came crashing down to drive the mill stones at the bottom, the water then continuing down the gorge to the next mill. It is an impressive sight to see the mills marching up the gorge as we walk along the stone-paved path.

This steep path is the only access to the wild gorge so the mills were gradually abandoned in modern times until the last mill closed in the 1950s.They are now picturesque ruins, although a few have been renovated badly by the local Ayuntiamento, too little too late and better not at all. The walk winds up the gorge, past the olive groves and orchards which are watered by the stream, olives, figs, oranges, lemons, huge mulberry trees and vines that produce the strong mountain wine Pitarra. The small, black Iberic pigs that produce the delicious jamon are left to range freely under the cork oak trees gorging on the acorns. In Spring the whole mountain becomes a tapestry of wild flowers including rare orchids and many aromatic herbs. Usually walks in the sierra are accompanied by the cry of the eagles circling above.

As one approaches Montanchez from the top of the gorge the castle rises majestically in the distance. In about 30 minutes one is within the ramparts and realizes why Montanchez is know as the balcony of Extremadura as the splendid views spread out below.