AN AUTUMN TRIP TO GUADALUPE & SIERRA DE VILLUERCAS

We had some gorgeous golden autumn days in late November so decided to take a trip to the Sierra de Villuercas to see the autumn colours. There are many more chestnut and oak trees in that area so the change of colour is really spectacular. Always interesting and impressive to visit Guadalupe again although sometimes the religious tourism can grate on the nerves, low key as it is.  The guided tour around the monastery was bearable if robotic,  but the  monk who took over the guiding into the sancta sanctorum, the chapel  of the virgin de Guadalupe seemed more sanctimonious than ever, a really unctuous monk who was somehow rather sinister and creepy. We were happy to escape without having to kiss a small picture of the virgin which was offered after a condescending lecture about our many troubles which could be helped by a prayer to the little black madonna.  I guess this hostile reaction is typical of an ex-ex- convent girl......I love the ritual, the art, the history, the drama but not too keen on the hierarchy,  just call me frivolous ! However, it was worth going to see the collection of Zubarans and the one touching Goya, one of the prison studies.
We had lunch in the staid dining room of the hostal belonging to the monastery, a bit of a time warp, back to a fascist period, about 1966.  We drove back on Manfred's secret route, right up to the higher ridges of the mountain and went through some magnificent scenery as the sun was setting.

PUPPIES AGAIN 1 MONTH OLD

ARCO IRIS

The meaning of iridescent comes alive in the Spanish word for rainbow, this one appearing after a November rain shower, arching beautifully over Finca al-manzil.

Puppies so far.........

Roxy's puppies were born on October 19th, 3 males and 2 females. All went really well, we hardly realized when the birth started and in fact when 2 puppies had already been born we heard a feint mewling in the grass outside and found another puppy, must have been the first born, it is the one we will keep, waiting for inspiration for her name. They are 1 month old tomorrow and looking gorgeous, because there are only 5 they get plenty of milk and are all somewhat rotund. Just starting to play and waddle outside, we will have them for another month and hopefully find good homes for four of them. More photos as they grow and grow.

BATTLE OF ARROYOMOLINOS - 200 YEAR ANNIVERSARY

The battle of Arroyomolinos was fought on October 28th 1811 on a stormy morning with torrential rain lashing the battlefield. The scene on the 200 year anniversary could not be more different, the Sierra de Montanchez was basking in warm sunshine and the re-enactment turned into a great fiesta with the bars spilling out onto the street, great fun to mingle with the local people transformed in their uniforms and costumes, some of great imagination. The day started at 11.00 in the main plaza, everyone assembled and then it was off to the battlefield just ourside the village. The numbers involved were of course just token, the actual battle involved more than 8,000 troops and 1,500 horses.. However, it was a very good effort and most effectively organized.

Assembly of the cast in the plaza before the battle

A guerilla converses with French troops....rather than slitting their throats



Guerillas

The "actors" were all local people with just as many women as men involved, some rather voluptuous troops indeed. The civilian population were well represented with some really imaginative costumes. The guerilla element hardly had to dress up as their costume is very similar to the present day fiesta garb worn at horse riding competitions in our area. It seemed the cast of Carmen had suddenly taken over the village, very colourful.  The cannons were only too real with deafening reports and lots of smoke.  My favourites were the hussars who looked incredibly dashing  with really show-off plumes in their shakos galloping at full tilt, not exactly a cavalry charge but still looked pretty good. Well done Arroyomolinos, I think they should do it every year and if they do I might be tempted to contrive a suitable costume, a somewhat ageing camp follower perhaps.

French troops

MORE IMAGES FROM RE-ENACTMENT

The owl and the pussycat...........

Ice from the sky

The storm on the morning of September 17th was quite amazing. The finca was battered by huge hail stones for at least 15 minutes. Then a stupendous thunder storm with torrential rain. Soon there were rivers flowing down the mountain carrying earth and fallen leaves down to our bottom wall. The drainage holes had become blocked up over the last year so the mud accumulated rapidly, it gradually seeped away but the debris left covered half the wall. The hailstone stayed on the ground looking pristinely beautiful for several hours. Quite bizarre considering we were sweltering last week. The sierra now looks very washed, wonderful to see the dark earth and mossy rocks after months of parched dusty earth. Unfortunately the swimming pool was inundated with muddy water, swimming weather is nearly over now but we will have to drain the pool, clean out the mud and refill, this has never happened before, a bit of a bore but almost worth the trouble to have experienced all the drama of the storm and the refreshing of the earth, hopefully there will be grass shoots coming up very soon and we shall once again have a green glow over the finca.

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CAMPO DEL MORO ... A SPECIAL CAMPING EXPERIENCE IN EXTREMADURA FROM MAY 2012

 

Birthday picnic at Salvaterra do Extremo - Portugal

For a long time we have wanted to return to Salvaterra do Extremo to walk through the gorges on the River Erge. It seemed a good day to go on my birthday so we were on the road early(ish) It took the usual 2 hours and we crossed over the ford into Portugal when it was still not too hot. We dumped our picnic under a huge shady tree on the river bank and set off along the track. Passed an old water mill with a tunnel design to withstand the winter torrents, there was debris caught up in the trees 3 metres higher than the present water level. As we walked along the castle of Pennefial on the Spanish side was constantly in our view. The walk is named Rota de Abutros,

the Vulture route and there were certainly plenty circling around the castle towers.
The track became quite steep as it meandered along the river bank. Finally we approached the first gorge which was quite atmospheric, quite narrow with several cascades.
We soon realized that it would not be possible to continue on to the further gorges as the track disappeared and it would mean a scramble on the slippery long grass or an attempt through the water, we will come better equipped next time, I can hardly wait to return to discover the further more inaccessible gorges.

Roxy was in heaven splashing around in the shallow parts of the river, we saw several kingfishers, lots of herons and what seemed to be a black stork but they are rare so could have been wishful thinking.

We reached our tree feeling ready for a small feast and some cool wine. What bliss sitting on a river rock, toes in the water balancing precariously yummy Torta de Casar cheese, cherries from La Vera, cold pizza, paté and small black wrinkly olives plus a glass of wine which was still quite

chilled. 

                                                                                                                  

We only left the ecologically sound footprint before heading back to car and a coffee in the village, the village that seems to draw us back quite magnetically.

On the way home we visited a castle which we had seen on the way, Marmionda. There was not much left but the outer walls but a beautiful Mudejar double arch was still surviving, just.

We arrived home looking forward to a swim and a quiet dinner with the total eclipse of the moon to observe at around 11ish.  Suzanna and Helmut were on holiday at their place just along the lane and they visited after dinner with yet another celebratory bottle which was perfect for the moon toast and a lovely end to the day.

     

Extremadura, moving on..........

Thieving Magpie with azure wings

The azure winged magpies come to steal the cat food every morning from the bowl on the back terrace of the cortijo. How privileged I feel to see these beautiful creatures that only exists here in the Iberic peninsular and far  away in parts of China, Japan, Korea and Mongolia. They seem to be very prolific on the finca this year, it's a wonderful sight to see large flocks flying past in a flash of electric blue.