THE MOST IDYLLIC PICNIC SPOT IN EXTREMADURA? CABAÑAS DEL CASTILLO, SIERRA DE VILLUERCAS

Approaching the village of Cabañas del Castillo with the Moorish tower, opposite is the abrupt rock known as La Peña Buitrera, rock of the vultures. Not only Griffon vultures frequent this area but black storks and various species of eagle.

    Steep climb from the village up to the castle rock but the path is secure and quite easy

    Eerie rock formations with amazing lichen colouring.

    Looking down on the other side of the castle rock down into the deep river valley

    Still climbing up through a narrow defile, rocky underfoot and full of slender young cork oaks.

 
    Finally reaching the top

 
     Rewarded by stunning views of the Sierra de Villuercas

 
     Looking back the way we came to the Peña de Buitrera. We explored on this side of the castle            tower and found the most heavenly spot for eating our picnic, perfect peace except for the cries of      the circling birds far up in the pristine sky.

 

     On the way back Lotti looks apprehensively at the iron bridge crossing between the rocks.
   

     Back down the steep path, we look down to the village and renovations of the moz-arabe church.

A bit of a scramble, walking sticks are useful. Back past the church, it was open, we had a quick look.        

   Very austere and not very characterful but with a pretty 17th century polichrome azulejo side altar

 

 Back down at the bottom in the village looking up at the bridge, we had to drag Lotti over in the end.

VERANILLO

Veranillo means little summer, similar to Indian summer. In Spain it can be anywhere between Veranillo de San Miguel, 29 September and San Martin, 11 November.

Here in Extremadura it started on 17 October and still continues in all its splendour. We enjoy it even more after 2 weeks of rain, beautiful after the long dry summer but  just about enough. Thankfully the sun broke through the mist and it is glorious. Temperatures of up to 29c during the day,  balmy nights with no wind, still eating outside, haven't unpacked sweaters yet!

We have been out and about for short trips in the immediate countryside to two different lakes, Aldea del Cano and Lacara are both beautiful and tranquil walks around large areas of water which attract a lot of birds.

Some of the most rewarding walks are right here on the finca. The path up to the peaks and the high olive grove with an ancient choza (primitive shelter) is particularly wonderful.The choza has been investigated as the site of an iron age fort, it certainly has extensive views. The walk from the finca up to the olive grove and choza takes 20 minutes.

              LOTTIE SURVEYING THE OLIVE GROVE 

The rock formations up there are amazing. Lottie loves exploring all the twists and turns of the magical path through the woods. Pure nature, we have left everything as natural as possible, the horses keep the path clear with their walks up  in the higher parts of the finca. Birds find an idyllic sanctuary in the silence of the woods.  

                BLINK AND IT'S GONE, AN AUTUMN COMMA BUTTERFLY ON CORK OAK BARK

RAIN + SUN = GREEN!

The sierra behind the cortijo

The autumn rains are very early this year, we have had rain on and off for the last 2 weeks, plenty of sun in between, ideal conditions for the miraculous growth spurt for all green things which have  been  lying dormant waiting for the first rain since last May.

Exquisite fronds

Moss!

The springs have started to flow again

Leucojum autumnale

The moss is the first to revive in all its emerald glory, then come the small seedlings pushing up shoots over night, the most delicate little white bell flowers and the acorns start to turn from acid green to golden brown. 

The horses look forward to acorns from holm and cork oaks

Perfect example of a choza at Casa Alfarera, its a primitive shelter

Willy enjoying the last hay

 The horses and Willy the donkey are getting the last hay, they will survive on fresh grass and acorns from now on.  This may not seem so magical to Northern Europeans but for us it’s been a long hot golden summer so  all this sudden verdure is pure delight.

Lovely Lottie, only 6 months and still growing and growing.....

Cortijo draped in honeysuckle and an instant green slope

More pet boulders around the cortijo

A GARDEN PARTY IN CASCAIS AND LATE NIGHT DASH TO LISBON FOR ENCOUNTERS IN AN OLD BROTHEL

Lots of excitement for the Extemadura country bumpkins  as we dash over the border to Lisbon for super weekend garden party in Cascais. A cousins reunion all planned by sister Vicky in her lovely garden. Our one remaining tia was there, Tia Lena, 86 years old and still sprightly.

A most heart warming time catching up after years and a few  of the childrens' life times. Stupendous food contributed by all, buckets of gin & tonic with crushed juniper berries, lots of CAKE...sumptuous chocolate and ginger, tiers of picture book fairy cakes. 

Non stop reminiscents about the oddest moments and members of family history, our latest doings and fads, fancies and follies, lots of fun and laughter, meeting new friends, all accompanied by my entire ipod jazz/ salsa/blues collection.

And then................after a little pause some of us zoomed into Lisbon for a night prowl around Cais Sodre, an area of former sleazy repute by the docks where naugty sailors would seek some pleasure behind the classic but decrepid façades of post earthquake 18th century buildings divided into warrens of little rooms now converted into bars and restaurants .

The one we chose was called "Pensao Amor", it's a huge building with many rooms designed  with post modern irony, playing on the old brothel days with louche settings, all plush, mirrors and chandeliers, amusing murals on the stairs. A cosy room with armchairs is the library dedicated to erotic/soft porn literature, some very interesting early editions of formerly banned books printed in Paris.

VICKY CONTEMPLATING THE DODGY BOOKS

It was packed on Saturday night, packed with tourists gaping and housewifey types (Manfred's comment). Apparently weekdays are better, when one can really take in the amazing collection of junk and tat that has somehow come together to create an amusing and comfy place with more than a few resonances from the good old days.

Some great memories to take back to our tranquil life at Finca al-manzil.

SUMMER TO AUTUMN

It's now officially autumn, time to say goodbye to all those long summer days and starry nights spent by the pool. We have had some early rain and the land has exploded into green; fresh grass and herbs, velvet moss on the boulders of the sierra, the miracle that happens every year in Extremadura, from a golden, dry summer landscape to super saturated green. Time to start our country walks again and breathe in the delicious autumny air. It's certainly cooler than high summer but still warm enough for swimming, we will still be using the pool until the end of October.


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