OVER THE SIERRA FROM MONTANCHEZ TO ARROYOMOLINOS- SPECTACULAR WALK

How many times have I done this walk? Maybe 20 or 30 times over 12 years  but it's still very special, not least because of the solitude, usually never meet another person.
Today was extra special with the sound of running water crashing down the mountain and accompanied by nightingales along the way. Because the walk is so secluded with many different natural habitats the bird life and botany are really impressive.

The walk starts in Montanchez and winds its way through 7 kms of the sierra on an ancient path down to Arroyomolinos.
First passing by vineyards and olive groves, through the mossy bosky chestnut wood now in deep cool shade and then out onto the wilder mountainside still smothered in exquisite wild flowers.

The path gets steeper as it approaches the gorge of Arroyomolinos passing by many natural springs on the way and with far distant views of terraced mountainside and way down to the hills beyond the gorge.

At the start of the gorge the first mill building appears, it has been renovated and used as an idyllic retreat, just below there is a torrent of water gushing back down to the main stream.

The path is steep but secure and follows the stream all the way down the gorge. The vegetation is wild and rampant, the ruins of many water mills emerge from the green tangle. A marvelous and unique collection of  mills cascading down the hillside, fascinating and romantic.

The design of the mills is ancient and features a tall stone tower with an acquaduct connecting the tower to a millpond, the mill is powered by the water of the mill pond being guided along the acquaduct and then crashing down the tall tower onto the paddles which turn the millstones, the water then flows back to the main stream and the next mill.

The base of the gorge  widens into meadows and olive groves on the outskirts of Arroyomolinos where there is a wooded path along the lower slope of the sierra all the way back to Finca al-manzil, about another 2kms on level ground

Blue sky over Finca al-manzil : Bee eater caught in the act

Orange!

This sofa is a very old friend, has been going strong in the family for several generations.
Has been through many avatars in my memory alone but now in its latest reincarnation it's ORANGE.....well a subtle shade but still rather vibrant, has been re-upholstered too so now super comfy with no springs poking through.
We have a brilliant upholsterer in Montanchez called  Reis, he performs miracles on all our old relics which I can't bear to part with. After 12 years some pieces are on the 2nd visit to the workshop.

May 21st.....still so green at Finca al-manzil

ANOTHER WALK TO THE BOTIJA MOLINOS

Our favourite Sunday walk ending up in the charming bar at Salvatierra de Santiago.

This was a beautiful sunny day only last Sunday, since then it's been rather wet, unusual in May but we will do the walk again this Sunday, the waterfall from the weir must be spectacular after all the recent rain. Absolutely love this walk, the bird life is wonderful, full of bee eaters nesting in the muddy banks, many storks and herons. Always a flock of goats, cows, sheep and Iberic pigs on the way to the perfect pastoral peace of the mill buildings surrounded by vast areas of dehesa. 

About a 2 hour walk. 

   

 

GOYA IN CACERES

We are so fortunate to have this marvellous local exhibition of Goya's four great series of etchings   Los Caprichos, Los Desastres de la Guerra, La Tauromaqina and Los Disparates (The Follies or Proverbios or Sueños).

The exhibition is called GOYA, TESTIGO DE SU TIEMPO: GOYA, WITNESS OF HIS TIME.
 A very apt title as Goya recorded unflinchingly the turbulent events of his life time in a Spain torn by religious bigotry, social upheavals, war, famine but also the rituals and customs of Spain, the popular entertainments of carnival, bull fighting, fiestas. The costumes and customs of the rich and poor meticulously recorded, the majas and majos, the beggars and prostitutes with the ever present Celestina, a name that has become synonomous for procuress in Spanish culture and she appears over and over again in Goya's work as a series of hideous old hags.
Seeing these again, they remind me of the huge influence Goya has had  and continues to have on 20th and 21st century art. Look at this, Paula Rego springs to mind!

These etchings made from original plates are owned by 3 individual private collectors and have been brought together for a touring exhibition, they have already been shown in Paris and Istanbul and now until June 06 at Fundación Mercedes Calles Y Carlos Ballestero at Casa Palacio de Los Becerra in the ancient city centre, Plaza San Jorge 2. www.fmercedescalles.org 
Only negative comment on exhibition is the framing, the reflections are distracting, non-reflective glass would have made the experience even better.

Another plus of this exhibition is the new restaurant also owned by the foundation right in front of the palacio at the foot of the Jesuit church and with access to the charming little garden of Ulloa
http://jardindeulloa.com/    Great tapas and more substantial dishes, fantastic quality and reasonable prices.

SURREAL BEAUTY OF BLACK BLUE AND GREY OVER FINCA AL-MANZIL