Friday 19 June 2015

VIVA LISBOA ! FESTA DE SANTO ANTONIO


June is the month of the Festas dos Santos Populares (Feasts of the Popular Saints).
Lisbon nights are filled with lively festivities that take place all over the ancient historical centre.
On the eve of Dia de Santo Antonio, June 12,  Lisbon turns into one big party!


The festivities can be traced back to an event in the 13th century, when Santo Antonio  travelled to Rimini from Lisbon.  The people of Rimini failed to appreciate his sermons so he decided to preach to the fish instead.  To the amazement of everyone,  masses of sea creatures appeared above the waves, eager to hear what he had to say. Today, the people of Lisbon remember the story by hosting huge street parties and feasting on grilled sardines from June 12th-14th.

The narrow streets  of  Castelo , Mouraria, Graça , Alfama,  Ajuda  and Bairro Alto are filled with people in a party mood, enjoying caipirinhas, mojitos, beer and wine on the steep cobbled hills of Lisbon’s historic centre.  The houses lining the narrow streets are decorated with garlands,  paper lanterns, streamers and coloured lights hanging  from balconies and railings. Also an essential element is MANJERICO . As a symbol of affection, people present each other with little pots of basil (manjerico) and paper carnations with sweet little love poems.


                                                                               FADO
There is a place called Largo de Severa in memory of one of the most famous Fado singers, she was made eternal in the painting by José Malhoa.  
The largo that bears her name is surrounded by a warren of narrow streets know as Mouraria, the home of many famous fado singers now commemorated by huge photos on the walls. 



As in Alfama this area has remained little changed since Moorish times as it was hardly damaged by the 1755 earthquake.  The  Moors  withdrew into this quarter after Lisbon was conquered by the Christians– a ghetto for people of different faiths arose.
 In the 19th century prostitution and fado, which was considered to be indecent, brought the quarter a bad reputation.
The renovation of houses and an improvement in the living standards of the inhabitants of Mouraria has begun recently. The area is full of typical grocery stores, old tavernas and cheap (but good!) small restaurants. Mouraria is one of the livliest areas during the celebrations.

 It is said that the melancholic sounds of the music and singing of the Moorish people was the basis of fado music. The quarter is still today associated with fado.
The ‘Casa de Severa’ at Largo da Severa 2 was the home of the legendary fadista Maria Severa Onofriando, who died at the age 26 on November 30, 1846, either from suicide or tuberculosis.
Famous  fadista Amália Rodrigues, the ‘queen of Fado’ was born near Mouraria on Rua Martim Faz.

 Maria Severa is regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, attaining a near-mythical status after her death: Maria had a passionate liaison with a nobleman, Conde de Vimioso. The affair ended badly but the scandal increased fado’s appeal, leading to the publication of its first sheet music
Fadistas, as fado singers are known, often wear a black shawl of mourning, as Severa did after her heartbreak. Her story epitomizes fado’s connection with saudade, “a feeling of longing or nostalgia”

SARDINHAS
Every bar and club  shuts its doors and moves  outside.
 Charcoal grills glow and huge quantities of sardines are grilled to perfection, no knives and forks, the etiquette is to delicately take off the charred skin and bones, place on bread and enjoy  sardinhas assadas no pão!  

                            SARDINE THEME.......SARDINE HATS AS APHRODISIACS !

PIMBA  is  a variety of popular Portuguese folk,  solo singers and bands set up on the streets, it’s loud and raucous, the words  frequently driven by sexy metaphors

SANTO ANTONIO  ( known as Saint Anthony of Padua)  matchmaker, protector of young brides and patron of the lost and found, was  born in Lisbon, on the site of the Santo Antonio church.


It was customary for local single girls to write a list of boys’ names on pieces of paper, scrunch them up and place them in a bowl of water under their beds.  In the morning, their perfect match was revealed as the name on the piece of paper that had unravelled the most.  Some girls took  more extreme measures, according to one festival tradition known as ‘blackmailing St Anthony’,  a small statue of the saint is placed upside down in the ground, the statue is only returned to its proper position when the saint successfully finds her perfect man.
Men  present the girl of their dreams with a basil plant containing a paper carnation and small love poem.  If all goes according to plan the happy couples may be taking part in next years multiple weddings  known as casamentos de santo António which take place during the festivities.




Thursday 4 June 2015

JUNE...........FULL MOON AT DAWN AND THE GLORY OF GARDENIAS


The Gardenia on the back terrace has not bloomed for 2 years, just producing lots of leaves so imagine our delight when it burst into flower on June 1st.  The whole house is perfumed with the glorious scent. The honeysuckle is coming into flower as well, summer is here!





Tuesday 19 May 2015

Prickly pear cactus, Yellow blossoms in the wild. Beauty, shelter, food.




    A particularly wonderful example near Finca al-manzil, must be several decades old

Friday 1 May 2015

A SPRING WALK IN THE CHESTNUT WOODS OF MONTANCHEZ

Lucy and I went on the magical walk 'Donde Nace'  8 kms walk through the woods and pastures of the sierra at their most magical now that we are at the peak of the wild spring flowers.
On the way there are fabulous views from the highest part of the sierra.
We see happy little pigs,contented sheep and the cascade that give the walk its name, donde nace means "where it is born" meaning the source of the water which then runs down the deep gorge to Arroyomolinos.
Finally back over the sierra to a splendid view of Montanchez and its Moorish castle with vineyards in the foreground just coming into leaf.
One of my favourite walks, mostly easy with a few steeper climbs, firm footpath and well signed with the blue arrows. At this time of the year the entire walk is accompanied by the fabulous trilling of nightingales.










Thursday 30 April 2015

LOS BARRUECOS NATURAL MONUMENT & THE WOLF VOSTELL MUSEUM

The Los Barruecos Natural Monument is in the middle of the Cáceres plain on the road to Portugal going west.



A spectacular natural creation that man has helped to shape. The unique undulating landscape is dotted with lakes and enormous granite boulders.
Los Barruecos has been declared a Natural Monument because of the beauty of its landscape with strange and eerie  granite formations sculpted by water and wind. 
Water has played an essential part in creating this unique natural habitat for numerous animal species, White storks and the grey herons find this an ideal place for their prolific colonies.
This has also been an ideal place for human settlement, as demonstrated by the many archaeological remains dating from the Neolithic through the Roman period and into 19th century. 
The 18th century wool processing factory (now the Wolf Vostell museum) was a major focus for the trashumancia, the herding of sheep down to Extremadura every winter from Asturias and Galicia. Here they were shorn and the wool washed  using  the abundant water from a natural lake sustained by making a dam and channeling the water into a huge boiler where it was heated to wash the lanolin from the wool, it was then packed into bales and distributed all over Spain.
A number of routes have been created through this vast expanse with differing durations and itineraries.
The Peñas del Tesoro route starts at the Vostell-Malpartida Museum and ends at the Peñas del Tesoro, skirting the Barrueco de Abajo lake. This is the most popular route, lasting just 30 minutes.
It passes one of Wolf Vostell's installations, typically car+ concrete+ impact

The Barrueco de Arriba route is a little longer. This is a 1 hour route around the lake that gives it its name.
But if you are looking for something more demanding, other routes take between 2 and 3 hours.
If you visit Los Barruecos, don't miss out on the Vostell-Malpartida museum, which houses a unique collection, consisting mainly of the work of the German artist Wolf Vostell who made his home and studio at an 18th century wool washing complex, a fascinating group of buildings which now house the collection.

 Wolf Vostell is the father of this museum, as he was for the Dé-coll/age technique, the European Happening, the Fluxus Movement and video-art. His art has a special spark to it – an unmistakable touch of originality –  discover it for yourself, art students, historians and general public visit this unique collection from all over the world, we are lucky to have it so close by.

The museum is made up of two noteworthy collections. The first of them, called Wolf y Mercedes Vostell, contains several works of art entailing elements of fetishistic symbology from our times, such as the car, television or concrete, transformed to warn us of the shadows and conflicts enclosed in the society we live in. Examples of works of this type are "Concrete Bull", "The Thirsty Dead Man" or the garden sculpture, "Why Did The Trial Between Pilate And Jesus Take Only 2 Minutes?"
The Fluxus collection – which was donated to Extremadura by the Italian collector, Gino di Maggio – is made up of a group of 250 works by 31 North American, European and Asian artists. 
The whole collection by conceptual artists contains 60 works, including pictures, picture-objects, sculptures and installations belonging to 48 artists that have had a special connection to the Vostell Malpartida Museum activities since it started in 1976. 




I have visited many times but always find a new message, something I had not noticed before. It's a great day's excursion combined with a walk around the lake and then a visit to Caceres and its monumental city. 
Only 40 minutes from Finca al-manzil.



Sunday 8 March 2015

RESERVA NACIONAL DE CAZA DEL CIJARA


Cijara is one of the wildest and most remote areas of Extremadura, situated in Caceres province on the border with Castillo La Mancha. It covers a huge area of 25.000 hectares with just one or two villages situated near the lake but mainly huge areas with nothing but water and deep pine and cork oak woods. It is a hunting reserve, the wild boar, deer and game birds are prolific, whilst walking on the many walking trails there are usually sightings of deer, the wild boar are more secretive and usually nocturnal. Bird life is amazing with birds of prey and many water species.

A wonderful day out but take a picnic as there are no cafés or restaurants anywhere on the winding narrow roads.
This is one of the trails through the woods and fabulous rock formations covered in vivid green lichen.
Needless to say we had the trails all to ourselves even on this gorgeous spring day


MARVAO AGAIN



Just 90 minutes from Finca al-manzil is the magical village of Marvao just over the border to Portugal.  Several places for a delicious lunch and endless fascination walking around this completely walled medieval village.

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